New area and routes across from Near Side

[brian.coones]

John Gregory and friends have been working hard to put up new routes.

The new area is directly across from Near Side. There are seven routes. Two sport and five trad. The routes are also TRable. All of the routes have new anchors bolted. All of the routes except for one has been led. Only one route has been named so far. "Angels Way" F6b; which is a sport route up the crack/chimney. Below is a topo of the route.

Once I get the names, grades of the routes and who did the FA I will post them.

[brian.coones]

The name of this area is "Far Side"

[elvis]

"Angels Way" F6b; which is a sport route up the crack/chimney

that crack is bolted?
suppose the ethics debate is out the window now ?

[brian.coones]

"Angels Way" F6b; which is a sport route up the crack/chimney

that crack is bolted?
suppose the ethics debate is out the window now ?

Yes, its bolted all of the way. It is an amazing climb too. I am sure that it will be a classic in the area for years to come.
I wouldn't recommended anyone trying to trad it either unless you have a whole lot of size 4 and bigger. You could place smaller pro in the very back of the crack but I wouldn't trust it. It all choss and filled with crud.

What the problem with it being bolted?

[lord of starkness]

suppose the ethics debate is out the window now ?

If I understand correctly it's apparently a new route on a new crag in a valley with a mix of trad and sport routes, so no debate necessary. It's not like someone's put a sport route up the middle of Wonderslab that crosses over existing routes!

I'm mildly surprised if it's the work of the Gregory's, however not shocked. If they placed the bolts then I've no doubt they will have given it due consideration beforehand, and I trust their judgement.

[elvis]

I'm mildly surprised if it's the work of the Gregory's,

yes very surprised but No objection here
so time to retro bolt wonderslab ?


just kidding alan

[elvis]

What the problem with it being bolted?

Bolting is evil souless and cowardice not to mention as nasty as a snake farm
death to all bolters

[brian.coones]

What the problem with it being bolted?

Bolting is evil souless and cowardice not to mention as nasty as a snake farm
death to all bolters

LOL, what is so bad about bolted routes? I love to climb trad but there are some days that I just do not want to deal with it and just want to climb with out all of the hassle. Granted you get better satisfaction from trad climbing but still it is nice to have good sport routes and it is better to teach someone to climb sport before trad. On top of that you can't find good trad gear at the shops here for the life of you or even decent rope for that matter. Most of what the stores carry is for sport.

Angles Way is a really great route but mostly unclimbable if there were no bolts.

[lord of starkness]

........ is a really great route but mostly unclimbable if there were no bolts.

A major campfire discussion centred around whether there should be bolts to protect the striking wide chimney tentatively called the Queen of Sheba at Wonderwall. No bolts were placed and it was eventually climbed by Pete to give 'Weasels Ripped My Flesh' - a virtually unprotected horror show that I guess sees few if any repeats.

If lines are left alone for long enough, they will be climbed by someone good enough ( or mad enough).

When new areas are being established it's the duty of the pioneers to give due consideration to the implication of their actions on future generations of climbers and not bolt things just because they can.

There's no shame in backing off something that's beyond your own ability and leaving it for a better climber or a better day. The most important thing is being able to reach the ground safely!

[red armada]

........ is a really great route but mostly unclimbable if there were no bolts.

A major campfire discussion centred around whether there should be bolts to protect the striking wide chimney tentatively called the Queen of Sheba at Wonderwall. No bolts were placed and it was eventually climbed by Pete to give 'Weasels Ripped My Flesh' - a virtually unprotected horror show that I guess sees few if any repeats.

Slight oversimplification there, Alan. It was first climbed by me - if somewhat speleologically - as "Guano stained my Pants" at VS'ish. "Weasels ..." is Pete's slightly contrived later variant. And anyway, I don't think "Weasels ..." would be any more popular with a million bolts, it's a squeeze chimney that you can't fall out of.